Category: Pest Control

Scorpions: The definitive guide and how to eliminate them

Scorpions are, by far, one of the bugs most feared by all, not only for their terrifying appearance, but also for how ferocious they can become if they decide to use their sting to defend themselves.

These animals have become authentic survivors, since they have existed for more than 400 years, adapting to the environment. Thus, it does not matter if it is desert and semi-arid regions, or humid and cold places, scorpions can appear wherever they want and without any problem, making their burrows with total ease.

What are scorpions?

It is about bugs belonging to the family of arachnids, where there are also ticks and spiders. Usually, they are related to desert and semi-arid zones, although their adaptive capacity allows them to be almost everywhere.

Many people confuse them with the classic spiders by the similarity in their appearance, more it is different bugs. The main discrepancy is in the tail of the scorpions, whose sting contains a powerful poison that they use to immobilize their prey and devour it.

Ants, spiders, centipedes, lizards and even small rodents are part of the diet of these peculiar and lethal bichillos. In addition to their tail, they have some hairs that work as sensors and detect the vibrations of their prey.

 

How to Get Rid of Scorpions for Good: The Ultimate Guide

Well, there is some truth to the old myth that the only survivors of a nuclear war would be the lowly cockroach and scorpion (as well as some foods which have a half-life rather than a shelf-life)

They live in the dark, they adore the scorching heat, their skeletal structure is on the outside and they can do yoga much, much better than you ever will: what chance do you have against them? Well, I’m here to give you the breakdown of every single tool, weapon and last hope at your disposal to finally get rid of scorpions for good.

Ruin scorpions’ living habitats

Newsflash: scorpions are living in your yard because they like it there. The conditions are favorable, the food’s good and they don’t have to pay rent for their single bedroom wooden log, or en-suite-construction-bag-left-forgotten-for-months. As soon as you begin to clear up any loose and inviting clutter, trash and disposable material from your yard that could make for a perfectly dingy and dark shelter for scorpions, you’ll begin to see a drop in their numbers.

Destroy scorpions’ food source

Joining up with point number one – by eradicating the elements of your yard that make for good shelter, you’ll disrupt the delicate little eco system that’s formed there. Especially if you get rid of rotten materials which can attract all manner of bug life; a scorpion’s staple diet. Do your best to keep flies and insects to a minimum around and inside your home. With no viable meal ticket available to them, scorpions will begin to look elsewhere for their dinner.

Get rid of leakage

Sticking with the theme of destroying the optimum scorpion environment; you also want to keep moisture to an absolute minimum where possible, both inside and outside the home. It’s no secret that standing water and moisture seepage are huge attractions for all kinds of pests and scorpions are chief among them, especially if you live in an arid climate (where both moisture pockets are few and far between and scorpions are most prolific).

 

Scorpions: The Ultimate Guide

Scorpions are very old creatures going back an estimated 430 million years. They are commonly believed to only be found in deserts, but species of scorpions exist in nearly every habitat including grasslands, forests, savannahs, and caves.

Scorpions have developed a reputation for being particularly dangerous creatures, but out of nearly 1,750 species, only 25 represent a threat to humans. Even among these species, the chance of a fatal scorpion sting is very rare. That being said, stings are painful and no one wants to deal with scorpions around their yards or in their homes. Find out everything you need to know about scorpion behavior and scorpion prevention and control techniques in this ultimate guide.

Scorpion Identification

Scorpions are arachnids that are related to ticks, mites, and spiders. They have eight legs, an elongated body, 2 grasping pincers in the front (known as pedipalps), and a 5-segmented tail that is often seen arching over the back. On the back of its tail is a venomous stinger that is the source of most of the trepidation surrounding scorpions. Scorpions can be many different colors including yellow, blue, reddish-brown, and black.

The size of a scorpion varies by species and can range from under 1 inch up to 9 inches long. Scorpions are unique because they will glow a bluish-green color when exposed to an ultraviolet light source (like a black light). This is because the cuticle contains fluorescent chemicals. UV flashlights will allow you to see them in the dark when they are most active.

Scorpion Behavior

Scorpions are nocturnal creatures. They spend the majority of the day hiding in cool, sheltered locations and will hunt at night. The diet of a scorpion mainly consists of insects and spiders, but may also include other scorpions, lizards, snakes, mice, and other small creatures. They are able to identify and locate their prey by sensing vibrations. They will either use their pincers to capture their prey or their stinger to inject venom to paralyze it.

 

Things I’ve Learned {the hard way} About Scorpions

about three months after we had moved into our current home. I was seven months pregnant with baby number two. Our nearly-two-year-old had woken early on a Saturday morning and I’d gotten up with her to let my husband snooze a little longer. Thinking he would sleep in for another hour at least (and patting myself on the back for taking the early shift), I was surprised when he emerged from our master bedroom just a few minutes later.

In a daze he told me he thought he’d been stung by a scorpion. He had rolled over in bed to go back to sleep and his elbow brushed up against the wall behind our bed (where a headboard would be if we had one). He said he had a funny sensation around his elbow, like a tingling, pins-and-needles numbness that was getting more intense.

Like any good wife, I didn’t believe him for a second and thought he was completely over-reacting. After all, he wasn’t screaming in pain and hadn’t seen anything when he’d looked at the spot on the wall where his elbow had made contact. To rule out the off-chance that he wasn’t insane, we went to investigate. Sure enough, when we pulled the bed away a few inches, a huge bark scorpion was crawling leisurely up the wall, just inches from our pillows.

And then I did what has become commonly known in our family as “Sarah’s scorpion dance” (picture much frenetic arm-waving and foot-stamping). After we had captured the scorpion using a water glass and flushed it down the toilet, I calmly considered our options: 1) Move, 2) Burn down the house, and 3) Move. I don’t normally have major phobias when it comes to bugs and spiders, but a giant deadly arachnid practically IN OUR BED during a season of life when we had a roaming toddler and impending newborn just about put me over the edge.

In the last two years I have learned a lot about scorpions. Although I am not a pest control professional or an entomologist, I have talked to several scorpion experts and experienced more first-hand trial and error than I care to remember

 

Scorpions

Scorpions are nocturnal, predatory animals that feed on a variety of insects, spiders, centipedes, and other scorpions. Large scorpions occasionally feed on vertebrates such as small lizards, snakes, and mice. Most scorpions live in warm, dry climates, and many of the species

IDENTIFICATION

Scorpions are easily distinguished by their crablike appearance, pair of pincers, four pairs of legs, and long, segmented tail ending with an enlarged segment bearing a stinger. Although they have two eyes in the center of the head and usually two to five more along the margin on each side, they don’t see well and depend on touch. When running, they hold their pincers outstretched, and the posterior end of the abdomen is usually curved upward. Scorpions that hide under stones and other objects during the day tend to carry their stinger to one side, whereas burrowing scorpions hold their stinger up over their backs.

The bark scorpion is the only common climbing scorpion and does not normally burrow but usually lives above ground under tree bark and in palm trees and crevices of rocky cliffs. Because it can ascend slump block walls or stucco, this species is the scorpion most likely to enter dwellings. The bark scorpion is attracted to moisture around homes and in the house. It also may be found in stacked lumber or bricks, firewood piles, cellars, and attics. It needs only a crack of 1/16 inch to enter a home.

This scorpion can often be found around homes and in garages. It is a night feeder attracted to water, swimming pools, irrigated areas, or outside lights where food prey such as beetles, cockroaches, crickets, moths, and other insects are attracted as well. During the day it may be found in woodpiles, palm trees, and decorative bark or under loose boards, woodpiles, rocks, or the bark of trees

LIFE CYCLE

Scorpions grow slowly. Depending on the species, they may take 1 to 6 years to reach maturity. On average scorpions may live 3 to 5 years, but some species can live as long as 10 to 15 years. Scorpions have an interesting mating ritual. The male grasps the female’s pincers with his and leads her in a courtship dance that may last for several hours. The exact nature of this courtship dance varies from one species to the next. In general, the male deposits a sperm packet and maneuvers the female over it. The sperm packet is drawn into the female’s genital opening located near the front on the underside of her abdomen. The female stores the sperm packet, and the sperm is later used to fertilize her eggs. After mating, unless he is quick and able to escape, the male is often eaten by the female.

Silverfish Information: Habits & Identification

Silverfish are small, silvery insects that thrive in humid environments. While they are capable of traveling long distances on foot, they tend to build colonies close to readily available food sources. This makes them particularly problematic in the Atlanta, Georgia region. Once they have found a source of food, they set up camp in dark, damp corners, usually in attics, old boxes, or kitchen cabinets. They are most active during the night when they will leave their nest area to feed, making it hard to manage silverfish control on your own. In addition, they can eat through wallpaper and thin wood cabinets, creating tiny visible holes. Unfortunately, the insects themselves are very fast-moving and difficult to see unless you stumble upon their nest. This makes silverfish control exceedingly difficult.

 

Silverfish & Firebrats

Homeowners usually see silverfish and firebrats when a cabinet door is opened, or a book or other object under which they were hiding is moved. Silverfish and firebrats are pests because they feed on a wide variety of materials, including glue, wallpaper paste, starch in clothing, book bindings, linen, rayon, paper and dried meats. Signs of their feeding are irregularly chewed patches.

Description

Three species of silverfish and one firebrat species are found in South Carolina.  Silverfish and firebrats are very similar in appearance. They have flat, wingless, elongated bodies, 1/2 to 3/4 inch long that taper from head to tail. At the head are two long antennae with three long antennae-like structures at the tail. Depending on the species, silver to gray scales cover their bodies.

Life Cycle

Adult silverfish may live two to eight years. In a lifetime, silverfish females lay about 100 eggs. They are laid singly or a few at a time and hatch in three to six weeks. They take on the adult color in four to six weeks.

Firebrats lay about 50 eggs at a time in batches. The eggs hatch in about two weeks under warm conditions. Young silverfish and firebrats look like the adults except for being smaller and white.  Depending on the species, silverfish and firebrats typically reach maturity in three to twenty-four months.

Habits

Silverfish and firebrats are active at night and hide during the day. In general, silverfish prefer damp, cool areas and can be found throughout the home. Firebrats prefer hot places, such as near ovens, fireplaces, furnaces and hot water pipes. Silverfish and firebrats are typically brought into a home in food, books, paper, starched clothing and furniture.  Their populations tend to increase slowly. If a large population is present in a house, it is usually an indication of longtime infestation.

 

Ways to Exterminate A Silverfish Infestation

Have you seen silverfish around your property?

Have you found holes in your favourite books, or clothes?

Having a silverfish infestation is a problem in many Australian homes. Although they seem harmless, these insects feed on starchy objects, especially books and paper products. And because of their small, flat bodies, they can squeeze through any space, making it difficult to exterminate them and prevent further damage. But what are your options for eliminating them once and for all?

Decrease food sources in your property

Silverfish hangs around your property for two things: food and shelter. When you eliminate their food source, they will most likely look for other places to nest in. Do this by regularly cleaning up the floors, washing the laundry as soon as you can, and avoiding storing books on the floor as they will be easy for the silverfish to access. You may also want to store old clothing in plastic bags, keeping food in sealed plastic containers, repainting walls or adding new wallpaper, and storing storage boxes in shelves rather than placing them on the floor, causing them to catch moisture and become a breeding ground for silverfish.

Fill up the cracks and crevices where they might pass through

Because silverfish can enter through cracks and crevices in the walls, ceilings, and floors, it’s a good idea to fill them in with some caulk. Doing so will prevent them from having entryways, quick exits, and a nest to lay their eggs. Prioritise putting caulk in damp rooms such as bathrooms and laundry rooms.

Sprinkle diatomaceous earth near where they crawl

Diatomaceous earth, a form of white powder created from algae, is highly-effective when used for silverfish. Sprinkle it on areas where silverfish might roam and you can eliminate them easily. When DE gets in contact with the silverfish, it sticks to their bodies and their waxy coating absorbs the moisture they have in their bodies, causing them to die.

Reduce your property’s humidity levels

Silverfish thrive in humid and moist areas of the property. Their favourite hiding spots are leaky pipes, wet bathrooms, and damp basements among many others. To make your home unappealing to these pests, seal out exterior cracks with caulk. You may also use a dehumidifier in your home which can reduce the overall humidity of specific areas. If you don’t have a dehumidifier, you may also keep the air conditioner on or keep the fans on for a given amount of time each day.

 

Silverfish Characteristics, Diet, Reproduction and Lifecycle

Silverfish are grayish-blue creatures with a teardrop-shaped body. They have three long bristles at their back and can grow up to 19mm in length. Although these insects do not pose serious harm, they are usually annoying to have around the house. They’ll eat your books, anything made of starch and sugar, your clothes, even dead skin cells, etc.

If there is a silverfish in your place and you fail to spot them early, you may have to face silverfish infestation in no time. This insect reproduces quickly, making it difficult to eradicate an infestation. Some species of female silverfish can lay up to 20 nymphs (eggs) a day, usually in crevices and cracks. The eggs are only about one mm in length so they are barely visible to our eyes. They are white and soft when first laid but become yellowish and hardens after a few hours. The eggs develop faster in a humid environment.

A silverfish can live up to three years. Just imagine the number of eggs it can lay throughout their lifetime!

When it comes to attitude, silverfish are known to be shy, reserved, and quite secretive. Because of their size and being secretive, it is difficult to spot silverfish.  But just because you cannot see a silverfish around does not mean that they do not exist. They may be lurking in the cracks of your home. If you see one, there may be more. Frequently, homeowners find them when it is too late or when the insect’s population already grow exponentially.

 

Ways to Prevent the Silverfish from Coming Back

Whether you have already experienced having these creatures around your house or not, it pays off to know what you should do to keep them away. As the adage goes, “Why spend all your time trying to solve a problem that you would like, just avoid having in the first place?”

1. Keep Your Place Clean

Prevention is always better than cure. Silverfish thrives in damp, dark, and moist areas such as under sinks, basements, bathrooms, attics, and closets. They also love the taste of wet wood and paper so you can also find them around cereal boxes, magazines, books, behind wallpaper, and along with rotting window sills. In short, they take shelter in a dirty, cluttered, and unkempt house. If you wish silverfishes to stay away from your property and your life, keep everything in your place clean. It is basic. A vibrant, spotless, and fresh place does not attract unwanted beasties.

2. Declutter and Vacuum Regularly

Silverfish usually hides in and often feasts upon old books, papers, and magazines. So if there is a pile of paper in your desk, there is a high chance that you’ll meet Silverfish again. Start getting rid of stuff you do not need or haven’t looked at in for a long time. The important papers, on the other hand, should be stored in airtight bins. Aside from decluttering, it is also essential to vacuum your place at least once a week. The vacuum can suck Silverfish eggs out of the baseboard and carpet. If needed, dry out the carpets through spraying baking soda in them. Leave the baking soda in the carpet for a few hours before vacuuming. The purpose of this is to dry out the eggs. Vacuuming can also help to remove food sources which may attract silverfish.

3. Light Up Dark Areas of Your House

Silverfish are nocturnal creatures so they tend to squeeze their bodies into dark and tiny spaces and gaps in your home. They hate light. Therefore, giving them what they dislike is one of the ways to keep them away. Let lots of light into areas and rooms that are predominantly dingy and dark. If you have an unused room, try installing new lighting or simply draw back curtains if there are some. The goal is to get rid of silverfish dungeons and any substantial shadows.

4. Use a Dehumidifier

An environment with a constantly humid atmosphere is an ideal place for silverfish. Keeping your place dry is important in preventing silverfish from coming back. This can be a big task especially for those living in areas with the winter season. Good thing, dehumidifiers are now available. Dehumidifiers can work wonder when it comes to casting out unwelcome silverfish.

5. Seal and Caulk

All those cleaning and vacuuming efforts will come to naught if you leave a small hole or an opportunity for silverfish to enter your house. To get rid of uninvited roommates forever, seal all entry points such as cracks and holes in your house specifically in your attic, basement, or any other dark, tight, and cold areas. A simple sealant or waterproof caulking will do the job. Also, ensure that there no pipework or plumbing is leaking moisture or is exposed to the outside.

How Not to Kill Mosquitoes

First, you need to understand the difference between repelling mosquitoes and killing them. Repellents make a location (like your yard or skin) less attractive to mosquitoes, but don’t kill them. So, citronella, DEET, smoke, lemon eucalyptus, lavender, and tea tree oil might keep the insects at bay, but won’t control them or get rid of them in the long run. Repellents vary in effectiveness, too. For example, while citronella may deter mosquitoes from entering a small, enclosed area, it doesn’t really work in a wide open space (like your back yard).

There are a host of methods that actually do kill mosquitoes, but aren’t great solutions. A classic example is a bug zapper, which kills only a few mosquitoes, yet attracts and kills beneficial insects that keep the mozzy population down. Similarly, spraying pesticides is not an ideal solution because mosquitoes can become resistant to them, other animals get poisoned, and the toxins can cause lasting environmental damage.

 

How to Get Rid of Mosquitoes Inside the House

• If you live in an area with many mosquitoes, you should use mosquito netting to protect infants less than two months old.
• Wear clothing from head to toe if possible, as limiting skin exposure will lower the chances of mosquito bites.
• Avoid wearing black or other dark colors, especially in warm weather, as they keep your body warm. Mosquitoes are attracted to warm bodies, and that’s not a recipe for bite-free success.
• Avoid wearing perfumes, as mosquitoes are attracted to the scent mixed with our body sweat.
• Use weather-stripping products to seal any door gaps. Protecting your home entry is an important step to reduce the access mosquitoes have inside.
• Eat more garlic. If you consume a lot of it, your sweat will smell like garlic. The smell deters mosquitoes and keeps them away naturally.
• Try using silicone caulk or screen patches to prevent mosquitoes from entering the house. Make sure that no screens have holes or tears. Turn on fans because they can break up carbon dioxide and throw mosquitoes off course.

 

How I Tested The Dish Soap Mosquito Killing Home Remedy

Using my kitchen area as a test center, (to my wife’s dismay but it was her idea), I placed a small saucer on our stove each night. The saucer was filled with water and two to three small squirts of dish soap. I did not stir or aggregate the soap in the water. I simply squirted it in and left it.

I made sure the overhead light on our vent-a-hood was left on over the stove. Although evidence of light attracting mosquitoes has been mostly debunked, it does help them to navigate. I wanted to make sure they could see the saucer of water. All the other lights in the house were turned off.

I also made sure that the sinks in the kitchen were empty and dry. I did not want to offer alternative water areas. By the same token, toilet lids were closed and bathroom doors were shut.

And so, I have a controlled test center. Let the battles begin!

 

Mosquito Predators

Mosquito Predators – what eats mosquitoes?

Mosquitoes have a number of predators that collectively can exert some influence on reducing mosquito populations. However, with a very few exceptions, predators generally have little effect on reducing the mosquito population over a large area. So, what are some animals that are mosquito predators?

Bats

While bats eat mosquitoes, they are far more effective at locating, catching and eating insects other than mosquitoes.

Birds

Many birds will eat mosquitoes. The more important among these are purple martins, swallows, waterfowl (geese, terns, ducks) and migratory songbirds. Bird predators usually eat both the adult and aquatic stages of mosquitoes.

Fish

Goldfish, guppies, bass, bluegill and catfish prey on mosquito larvae. But the most important fish predator, by far, is the Gambusia affinis, commonly known as the mosquito fish. This is probably the most effective predator of mosquito larvae and is used by many mosquito control agencies to augment their control efforts.

Frogs and Tadpoles

Most adult frogs and tadpoles do not include mosquitoes as a large part of their diet. Tadpoles infrequently feed on mosquito larvae and instead generally feed on small, suspended particles of plant-related materials. However, mosquito larvae predation is known for three species of North American tadpoles – the spade foot toad, green tree frog and giant tree frog. While not a direct act of predation, tadpoles may compete with mosquito larvae for food.

Turtles

The red-eared slider turtle is generally thought to be the most voracious turtle that feeds on mosquito larvae.

 

Plants And Animals That Cut Down On Mosquitoes

Of all the pests and bugs that can invade your yard, mosquitoes can be some of the most annoying, especially during the warm summer months. When spending time by the pool or lounging outside for a barbecue, nothing can ruin it more quickly than the constant buzzing, bites, and irritation that mosquitoes bring.

Finding a way to lower the numbers of these pests can be pretty difficult. While several chemicals and sprays have been developed to kill mosquitoes and halt their reproduction, natural solutions also exist. For the best protection, smart homeowners can use natural predators and plant-based deterrents to reduce the mosquito population in their yards without resorting to chemicals.

Here are some of the plants and animals that can help cut down your mosquito problem:

1. Marigolds

Beyond their beautiful and vibrant coloration, the scent that marigolds release make them a great natural mosquito deterrent. They’re also known to keep away other insects that can damage your other plants, making them especially helpful for gardeners or people who like to grow some of their own food.

Plant some marigolds in your yard, either from a starter plant or from a seed, and start solving your mosquito problem and beautifying your home simultaneously.

2. Citronella

While largely produced in Asia, the citronella plant is a well-known mosquito solution among southern homeowners. This clumping grass emits a strong scent that’s quite effective for mosquito and other insect control, and its natural properties have made it a common ingredient found in several insect repellants.

The herb has also been used in many other ways, such as a perfume or as a way to calm barking dogs. It has even had success as a spray to keep pests from destroying furniture and other household valuables, meaning that homeowners that invest in citronella plants for mosquito protection may be able to glean several additional benefits.

Citronella can be planted in a large pot, or used as an ingredient in candles or torches.

3. Catnip

While, as the name implies, catnip is more widely-known for its effect on cats, it nevertheless serves as a potent mosquito repellant. A close relative to the mint plant, catnip, like citronella and marigolds, releases a scent that mosquitoes can’t stand, deterring them from approaching.

Unfortunately, catnip only works well as a repellant if the mosquitoes are in close proximity to the plant, meaning that you probably won’t be able to protect your entire yard with just this plant. However, the oil in catnip can work wonders when applied to the skin, acting as a natural bug spray. Catnip is also very easy to grow and maintain, making it easy to keep a steady supply.

Just remember how intense the effect of catnip is on cats, and how powerfully they are attracted to it. You don’t want to replace one pest with another in the form of unwanted felines on your property.

4. Dragonflies

Why not use a helpful insect to fight a harmful one? In the realm of animals that help maintain mosquitoes, dragonflies are among the most unique. Dragonflies consume a lot of mosquitoes, but sometimes even with the large amount they ingest, they may not seem to to have a significant impact on the problem.

However, their real strength is less in stopping an existing mosquito infestation and more in preventing them in the future. Dragonflies do consume adult mosquitoes, but they have a much greater impact on mosquito larvae. Mosquitoes lay eggs in bodies of standing water, which dragonflies will happily eat up before they have a chance to grow into adults.

Effective Solutions to Keep Possums Away from Your Home

A possum may look like a cute and cuddly creature. However, in reality it can wreak havoc on your home. Unfortunately for property owners, possums are plentiful in and around the Melbourne area, making it necessary for people to possum-proof their buildings to keep out these nocturnal creatures.

Even if possums pose no real physical danger to you or your family, it can tear up your residence and office and cause an overall nuisance that could disturb the quality your life. These possum removal tips can help you keep possums off your property and away from your garden and trees in your yards.

But first, here’s an important piece of information you should take into consideration. As native animals, the Australian law protects possums. So now matter how much of a nuisance they are to you, there is a very detailed and thorough way of ridding your property of them that only the professionals would know

We strongly urge you to have possum control done at the hands of a professional to avoid any legal issues or getting clamped down with a fine of $5.000.

Having said that, let’s clear the air around a common confusion that most home-owners have. Not all noises in the roof indicate a possum invasion. Often it may just be a rodent or wildcat situation. The key to discerning whether you have a possum problem at hand is realizing the exact time of the noise. Being nocturnal they’re generally quiet while heading out.

 

Tips for Removing Possums from Your Property

Possums are not the most dangerous and destructive creature you’ll spot in your yard, but that doesn’t make them any less annoying. Possums are typically 4-15 lbs. in size and play “possum,” or, mimic a dead animal, when they feel threatened. This makes them particularly distressing for homeowners, who can’t tell whether or not a possum is actually sick or just trying to be left alone. If you have possums on your property you want to get rid of, here’s where you should start.

Remove Enticing Elements

Like raccoons, possums are looking for a quick meal and shelter. They are very resourceful and not picky eaters, so they will eat any plant or animal matter that is readily available. Possums will also find shelter wherever possible, whether that means an attic or a brush pile. It can take humane animal control services to get them out sometimes!

Remove Entrances

Most of the damage caused by possums happens when they can get inside of your home or barn. Once they take up residence, they will excrete waste, destroy insulation, eat whatever food is available, and be bad house guests. Taking away any potential entrances to your home is essential. Trim any tree branches that hang within 10 feet of your roof, as possums are excellent tree climbers. Close off any entrances to basements, garages, barns, etc. Fix any broken screens or vents that could be used by possums to gain access to your home

Pick the Right Removal Method

If there is a possum inside of your home that shouldn’t be there, you need to choose the right control method for the job

 

Strategies To Sort Out Pest Possums

Know Your Enemy: The Possum

While it is technically possible for any mammal to get rabies, it’s extremely rare for a possum to have rabies. This is largely due to the possum’s low body temperature, which makes it difficult for the rabies virus to survive. This doesn’t mean getting bit by a possum is necessarily a positive experience, and if you are bitten you should still consult medical attention.

Seal The Entry Points

If you are hearing little foot steps and clawing in your attic, garage, shed, or crawl space underneath your house, chances are you’ve got some sort of animal that’s made it it’s home. No matter what type of critter it is, this preventative measure works for all. Low decks are especially susceptible to be breached by possums if not adequately sealed. Thoroughly inspect your home to identify any possible entry points and close them off to prevent any re-entry.

Get Rid of Any Possible Meals

While you may be excellent company to hang around with, possums are likely only after your food and garbage. Getting rid of any potential food sources won’t give them a reason to hang around your backyard. If they’ve found comfort in your home, however, they are likely searching for food elsewhere and relying on your home or shed for a dwelling.

Rage in the Cage

Since possums are fairly slow, they are very easy to trap in a cage. One must be wary of their tendency to get aggressive when cornered (like any animal), and it’s best to leave this to a professional who can humanely capture and transport the possums.

Scare Them Away

This is one of the most basic pest control tips out there because it works. The vast majority of possums are incredibly aversive to human interaction, so if you see one of them waddling around your backyard, simply making your presence known and warding them off with a stick is enough to get rid of them. If they’ve settled in your home, however, that’s a different story.

 

How to Get Rid of Oppossums?

Possums are excellent to have around the house. They clear out garbage, feed on harmful insects and have charming, rat-like tails. Not impressed? You’re not alone. While many people have an appreciation for wildlife, it’s best for wildlife to stay in the wild. Having possums lurk around your home in the middle of the night is not the most pleasant thought. So how do you get rid of possums that have become all too eager to call you neighbor? There are a few ways to solve this dilemma.

Regions and identification

“The Virginia opossum (Dedeliphis virginiana) is North America’s only marsupial (“pouched”) mammal. It is found often very abundantly throughout the eastern and midwestern United States westward into Colorado and Texas. It is also found in the western coastal states of California, Oregon, and Washington and in the southern regions of British Columbia. It is not typically found in mountainous regions, in extreme deserts, or in the high northern sections of the United States.”

Disease

Your main reason for questioning how to get rid of possums may stem from a concern about disease. Many people fear that possums are rabid creatures. However, while possums do carry certain diseases, they appear to have a certain resistance to rabies.

Benefit to ecosystem

It is important to get rid of possums that are causing havoc in your home, but not all possums are bad. According to the Wildlife Rescue League, “Opossums are excellent at rodent and insect control, and being carrion eaters, they help keep roadways and neighborhoods clean.”

Opossum control

Opossum removal can be a challenging task. The best method for controlling an opossum population is prevention. The Wildlife Rescue League recommends the following:

Do not leave pet food or trash outdoors at night. This is always an invitation to dinner.

Pick fruit and garden crops when they are ripe to discourage opossums, and do not leave rotten fruit or crops on the ground.

Eliminate brush piles, dilapidated buildings, and holes under concrete slabs – you will eliminate opossum hotels. Opossums use the abandoned burrows of other animals rather than digging their own.

Secure pet doors at night, as opossums occasionally enter homes through pet doors. Once inside, they can generally be coaxed outside with a broom. Opossums seldom stay in one area for more than a few nights, so fear of them “taking over” an area should not be a concern. Occasionally a mother with babies might stay longer, but will leave after a brief period as well.

 

Live Animal Trapping: Opossums

The Opossum is commonly called the Possum.  However, it’s proper name is Opossum, and can be pronounced either uh-possum or just possum.  The Opossum is the only living Marsupial found in North America naturally.  The adult Opossum’s body found in and around Southern California measure around about 20 inches long and their tail adds another 10-20 inches more.  They look similar to a very large rat with a long skinny tail.  They are typically furry animals with white or beige fur and usually a white face.  Their eyes are typically pink and cannot see well during the daylight.  They are nocturnal, nighttime, creatures. The Opossum can eat just about anything, and that means they can live among humans quite well.  They are typically nocturnal scavengers that eat our trash, dog and cat food, rodents, dead carcasses of dead animals, insects, our fruits and vegetables, and anything else they can find.

Habitat of the Possum in Santa Barbara County

Opossum are commonly found living in and around residential and commercial areas.  We find them living beneath crawlspaces, in burrows, but most commonly we find them occupying sheds, garages, attics and other areas around the home.

Opossum Problems

Opossums found in Santa Barbara County commonly have fleas, lice and ticks, but that’s just the start of it.  They are also a very smelly animal that can cause some unpleasant odors around your home.  They are also common carriers of all sorts of diseases.  This can include diseases like Tuberculosis, Salmonella, Spotted and Yellow Fevers.  Because they often live quietly among us, they may infect areas around our house that can cause disease to travel to our domesticated animals and even ourselves.  Eating contaminated fruits, vegetables and herbs without a good washing can infect us.

Clean up after live animal trapping

Because Opossum can often be found living in and around your home, such as the garage, crawlspace or attic, clean up is needed of the affected areas.  Our live animal clean up services get your residential areas free of the diseases and insects that can be found with the Opossum.  Our objective is to give you the comfortable feeling of your home back to you.

How to Become an Exterminator

Exterminators, also known as pest control workers, visit homes, businesses and other buildings to set traps or spray insects. The work of an exterminator can be physically taxing, and it takes considerable training to become one. A high school diploma or GED is the minimum educational requirement, followed by on-the-job training that includes formal class instruction as well as supervised work. Pest control workers must be licensed. In some states, you might also need to pass a written examination or meet other requirements.

General Requirements

All pesticide applicators in the United States come under the jurisdiction of the US Environmental Protection Agency and the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA). But each state has a “lead agency” (usually the state’s department of Agriculture or Environmental Protection) that actually implements the FIFRA requirements, and they do so quite differently. So what appears here is very general in nature. For more accurate information, contact your state’s pesticide lead agency or Cooperative Extension department.

In most states, candidates to become certified pesticide applicators must be at least 18 years of age and have a certain amount of experience working under a certified person and/or have completed an approved training course.

Applicants to become certified must also “be of good character.” Different states interpret this differently. In almost all cases, convictions for certain crimes involving the environment, pollution, or terrorism will bar an applicant from working with pesticides. Other convictions may or may not prevent certification, depending on the state and the nature and circumstances of and time since the conviction.

 

Specialized Training Required

Pesticide applicators must adhere to rules established by federal agencies such as the Environmental Protection Agency. In addition, each state has its own regulations and requirements. The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics notes that most pest control workers must have a high school diploma or GED. Although on-the-job training is the norm, some states require formal technical instruction. States are increasingly likely to require a candidate to complete a state-approved pest control management program, according to Scarafaggio’s Pest Control Site. Online or correspondence courses may be acceptable in some states. You can usually find training courses at your state’s Cooperative Extension department or from community colleges, employers or pesticide companies.

Supervised Training and Examinations

Supervised training is an important part of becoming an exterminator. Most companies offer training programs, and the BLS notes that the average training period is about three months. During your training you will work under the supervision of an experienced exterminator. Before you can work independently, you will need to become licensed, which typically involves passing two written examinations. The first exam is the core section, which covers basic pesticide application concepts. The second exam is specific to the category you will practice, such as rodent or insect control. Some states might also require an oral examination or a practical demonstration of your knowledge. You will also be required to carry liability insurance or work for a company that does.

 

How to Get Certified to Do Pest Control

• Obtain your high school diploma or equivalent. According to the National Pest Management Association, most pest control companies do not require a college degree.

• Take pest control courses offered through your state’s department of agriculture or similar governing body. The courses will cover the basics of pesticide safety, such as proper application techniques, preventing exposure to pesticides and proper cleansing methods in instances of exposure.
• Take the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s National Pesticide Operator Core Exam. In addition to other tests your state may require for certification, the EPA exam serves as certification to be a private or commercial pesticide applicator. The 90-question exam ensures that applicants are tested on relevant material and establishes uniform standards across states. Each state varies in its recertification or renewal requirements
• Undergo training from an employer after receiving certification. Most states require pest control workers to have on-the-job training, which usually takes about three months. This training can be a mix of field experience and classroom instruction.

 

 

What is dangerous about this job?

• Chemicals (pesticides) used by Pest Exterminators are usually toxic to man. They may cause acute or
• chronic poisoning, burns, skin, eyes, throat and other disorders, and be harmful in other ways.
• Some pesticides are flammable, and their careless handling and storage may cause fires.
• Pest Exterminators often work in uncomfortable postures and handle heavy loads, which may cause traumas
• and, in the course of time, back, hands and arms pains.

 

Job Satisfaction

Average Americans work well into their 60s, so workers might as well have a job that’s enjoyable and a career that’s fulfilling. A job with a low stress level, good work-life balance and solid prospects to improve, get promoted and earn a higher salary would make many employees happy. This job is not for people who can’t balance their work schedules, make quick decisions or crawl into small spaces. If you specialize in exterminating termites, it is especially important to be comfortable working in small spaces. But even if you are ridding a home of rodents, you may have to work inside an attic, Wren says. Termites are a bigger issue in the southern U.S., whereas rodents and bed bugs are the worst offenders in the northern part of the country.

To better balance work and family life, lets his employees work on a rotation and come in later if they are scheduled to work later, since many appointments occur after people get home from work and on the weekends. Exterminators, no matter what company they work for, have to be prepared to work on weekends and in the evenings when the bulk of the work is scheduled.

Selecting a pet rodent

Pets are an important part of the American household. Your pet-owning experience will be most enjoyable if you carefully consider which pet best suits your family, home, and lifestyle. Unfulfilled expectations are a leading cause of pet relinquishment, so make an informed decision. Take time, involve your family, and give careful consideration to the following questions if you are thinking about a rodent as a pet.

What’s special about pet rodents?

There are a range of small rodent species that offer options from interesting exotics to placid, domesticated species. They usually live in an enclosed habitat like a cage, pen, or hutch, but most will enjoy spending time outside their habitat with their human family. Their size and cage-pet status can make them seem like a less expensive or easier pet-keeping option. However, rodents still require an investment of time, attention, and resources in order to thrive and provide the best companionship for their owners.

Choosing a rodent

It is natural to be drawn to a cute little animal on first sight, but you need to consider which type of rodent might be a good fit for your family

Hamsters

The most common pet hamsters are Syrian or golden hamsters, but albino (white with pink eyes) hamsters are also available. Hamsters housed in pairs or groups may fight, so they are usually housed alone.

Gerbils

Similar in size to hamsters, gerbils are more active and social. Unlike hamsters, gerbils are happier when housed as a pair or in a small group. Potential owners should be aware that purchasing and keeping gerbils may be illegal in some states.

 

How to Choose Between a Pet Mouse or Pet Rat

Mice and rats are both low maintenance, cute pets. However, they do have different needs and personalities. Choose a rat if you’re looking for a more social, active and clean pet. If you’re on a budget and want a pet that requires little to no handling, a mouse is your best bet.

Choose the right pet for your schedule. Both mice and rats are nocturnal animals and are therefore likely to be hiding and sleeping during the day. Keep this is mind before adopting because they often like to play and make noise at night; keep this in mind when considering adopting a pet rodent

Adopt a mouse if you want a low maintenance pet. You can gently hold and stroke a pet mouse, or leave it to exercise in its cage. In contrast, rats need a bit more attention and will regularly need to be let out of their cage to play. If you don’t want this commitment, get a mouse instead.

Pick your pet based on the cage size it needs. How a rat or mouse cage might fit into your home could be an important factor to consider in deciding which animal to adopt. Rats require larger cages than mice due to their larger size. Both mice and rats should have cages where they can be viewed from the front rather than the top, so as to minimize stress

Choose a rat for a cleaner pet. You will have to clean up after both pet mice and pet rats. However, overall rats tend to be cleaner than mice, particularly in terms of their smell and droppings. Pet rats can also be toilet trained whereas pet mice can’t

 

How to Choose a Cat Who Will Kill Mice

Choosing a Gifted Mouser

Aloof demigod or cuddly cutie-pie, your cat is descended from countless generations of fierce predators. Under the right circumstances, almost any cat will kill a mouse. However, some cats seem to live for the hunt while others prefer to wait for the occasional mouse to stumble directly into their food bowls.

What Makes a Good Hunting Cat?

When choosing a good mouser, breed matters least. While certain types of cats, including Maine Coons and American Shorthair cats, are known as good mousers, there is tremendous individual variation within each breed.

How Kittens Learn to Hunt: A Skill Honed With Practice and Play

Watch as these kittens learn hunting skills through games and practice. As they begin to hunt, you may notice that their play looks a lot like the games you’ve seen more urban kittens and cats enjoy with their toys. The playful stalking, pouncing, and wrestling of kittens is practice for the hunt.

It’s All Fun and Games Unless You’re a Large and Juicy Rat

Whether you’re choosing a kitten or an adult cat, look for one who plays fiercely. When kittens play, they are honing their skills as little hunters. Watch for cats of any age who “stalk” their toys, or bite them and shake them vigorously. This type of play mimics more serious hunting behavior and is a good indication that a cat will seek out and kill mice.

Where to Find a Good Mouser

If you live in or near a rural area, look for a farm with a litter of barn cats. Plus, many states have barn cat relocation programs, so check the Internet for an organization near you. These kittens will have learned to hunt by watching their mothers, and are more likely to have a few kills under their own belts. An adult barn cat is an ideal choice if you can provide it with an appropriate environment, but may not adjust well to city life.

 

Top Cat Breeds For Catching Mice

People welcome cats into their households for a variety of reasons. Some just want a fluffy companion to share a couch or bed with, while others have small children who desire a low-maintenance playmate.

Other cat owners choose the domesticated cat for an altogether different purpose. These people appreciate cats for their natural gifts, namely, their hunting instincts. Cats have walked alongside human beings since time immemorial as valued assets for controlling the rodent population. On farms, in port cities and even on the decks of ships, cats have proven themselves worthy business partners for thousands and thousands of years.

Chances are good you don’t ferry spices and silks on ships from the Old World to the New, so maybe you don’t need a cat to keep your lower decks free from pesky mice. Still, no matter where you live in the United States, you’re bound to encounter one of our smaller mammalian friends at one time or another. To catch them, you need a qualified hunting cat.

Cats and Mice: It’s Complicated.

Do cats eat mice? It probably sounds like a simple enough question, but the truth is many people don’t know what their cat gets up to when it’s out in the yard

How to Choose the Right Cat for Hunting Mice

Before we get into the nitty gritty of choosing a perfect hunting cat, know you won’t always have a choice when it comes to breed.

 

Rodent Control

The word rodent means to “to gnaw.” We will mostly be reviewing the type of rodent called “commensal rodent.” The word commensal means “sharing one’s table.” The three types of commensal rodents are the House Mouse, the Norway Rat, and the Roof Rat. These rodents carry diseases and eat and contaminate our food. These rodents co-exist with humans and closely associate with human habitats for food, water, and shelter. If living conditions for the rodents (food, water, and shelter), are right, they can multiply quickly. In your rodent control program, the essential first step is to eliminate or control their food, water and shelter provisions. After this first step, use the methods of trapping and baiting to get rid of the rodent population. Other types of rodents, such as the white-footed mouse, deer mouse, harvest mouse, pocket mouse, or pack rats may enter buildings, particularly if they are near wooded areas or fields.

Rats are larger than mice, with correspondingly larger heads and feet. Rats also have coarser fur than mice. Mice are curious, while the rat is cautious. You will find Norway rats in burrows and the lower levels of a structure, while Roof rats prefer the upper levels of structures. Inspecting the rodent activity is essential. Use a flashlight to inspect their particular activity. Look for their “droppings”, rodent tracks, gnawing damage, burrows, runways, urine stains, rub/grease marks, and any other sitings of dead or live rodents. They also make screeching sounds, digging, or scratching sounds. If an infestation is well established, you may be able to detect a rodent odor.

To successfully get rid of mice and rats, it is critical to determine which type of rodent you have for effective control. For example, choosing the correct size trap is critical. A mouse trap would be too small for a rat, and a rat trap may not be sensitive enough to catch mice.

Behavior Difference Between Mice And Rats

Since rodents are dependent on their environment, it may be difficult to describe typical behavior and habits. But there are generalizations of their habits for practical purposes of rodent control around and inside buildings

Get Rid Of Mice And Rats

You will want a complete rodent elimination to occur before the rodents move to another area. A successful rodent control program includes a combination of baiting and trapping for the highest rate of success. However, if the rodent population is large, begin with a high quality rodent bait, in order to quickly knock down a population and prevent rapid growth.